Anabel Kingsley, Brand President and Consultant Trichologist at Philip Kingsley, delves into the ins and outs of hair shampooing. She looks at frequency and hair texture, while busting common myths, in the first of our Trichology series with Philip Kingsley. 

What advice to give when clients ask, “How often should I shampoo?”

You may hear this question time and time again: “How often should I shampoo?” You may even find yourself suggesting clients stretch the days between washes to “avoid stripping the hair.” It’s a message that’s become deeply embedded in our industry — but it isn’t rooted in hair and scalp science. As a trichologist, I always explain you need to consider two very different tissues: the scalp and the hair.

The scalp is living skin. It produces sebum, sweats, sheds dead skin cells and is exposed to environmental pollutants — just like the skin on the face. And like facial skin, it benefits from regular cleansing. When the scalp is clean and balanced, the environment for hair growth is optimised. Quite simply, healthy hair begins with a healthy scalp — it is your client’s hair’s support system.

Hair, however, is biologically inactive (aka dead) once it emerges from the scalp. Cleansing the hair itself is largely about aesthetics and manageability — removing environmental grime and product build-up that can leave strands looking dull, limp and greasy.

And here lies the conundrum: what benefits the scalp and what suits someone’s hair texture and styling habits don’t always align.

So, how often should your clients shampoo?

You can confidently reassure clients that daily shampooing is excellent for scalp health and does not inhibit hair growth. In fact, it supports it.

How often someone chooses to shampoo, however, depends on hair texture, styling habits, lifestyle and personal preference. Your role is to guide them toward a frequency that protects scalp health while remaining realistic and enjoyable from a routine and styling perspective.

As a general rule, I recommend shampooing at least every other day, and no fewer than twice per week. Leaving longer than this can allow oil, sweat and dead skin cells to accumulate, which may negatively impact scalp health and hair growth over time.

Texture-specific guidance

Fine hair clients

Encourage daily to every-other-day shampooing.

Those with fine hair typically have more sebaceous (oil) glands, meaning their roots get greasy fast. Fine fibres are also smaller in diameter, so they’re more easily weighed down. Frequent cleansing helps maintain volume, shine, movement and scalp comfort.

Coiled, curly or coarse hair

If your client is happy shampooing daily or every other day, encourage it. A healthy scalp benefits every texture. However, if time constraints or styling routines prevent this, emphasise the importance of thorough cleansing when they do shampoo. Consider recommending:

• An exfoliating scalp mask or rinse pre-shampoo
• Double shampooing (first cleanse for the scalp with a more cleansing formula, second for the hair with a moisturizing shampoo)
• Leave-on, oil regulating soothing scalp topicals

This ensures effective removal of product build-up, oxidised oils and dead skin cells without compromising on hair condition.

For clients who heat style

If a client heat styles every time they shampoo, the benefits of cleansing can be undermined by mechanical and thermal damage. Reinforce healthy heat practices:

• Use low to medium temperature settings
• Keep dryers at least six inches from the hair
• Avoid pressing the nozzle directly onto strands
• Choose vented, pronged brushes that are gentle on the cuticle
• Always apply a heat protection product
• Incorporate weekly strengthening or bond-building masks

For clients with dandruff

Dandruff is a scalp condition — and like any skin concern, it responds best to consistent, targeted treatment. Encourage frequent shampooing with an anti-dandruff formula appropriate for their hair texture. Dandruff thrives in an oily environment, so infrequent washing can exacerbate symptoms.

A daily, water-based scalp tonic is an excellent addition, as it allows active ingredients to remain on the scalp. A weekly treatment mask can further support results. For example, our Flaky/Itchy Scalp range at Philip Kingsley was developed to clear dandruff while maintaining hair’s integrity. 

For clients concerned about colour fade

Yes, shampooing can accelerate colour fade — but this is largely due to the act of wetting the hair rather than the cleansing agents themselves. Ultimately, clients must prioritise what matters most to them: optimal scalp health or maximum colour longevity. Recommend colour-preserving shampoos and low heat styling (high heat causes colour fade!) Hopefully they can find a happy medium.

Myth-busting: what you can confidently say in the chair

 “Shampoo strips natural oils.” MYTH

Modern daily-use shampoos are formulated to cleanse without stripping. The hair’s MEA lipid layer (also known as the F-layer) is chemically bonded to the hair and cannot be removed by shampoo alone. It is disrupted by chemical processing, excessive heat, UV exposure and abrasive tools — not routine cleansing. Shampoo may remove some free surface lipids, but these are replaced with conditioner and styling products. Any perception of “dryness” is typically resolved by using a well-formulated post-shampoo conditioner.

“Shampooing makes the scalp produce more oil.” MYTH

This is a myth. Cleansing your face daily does not make it produce more oil — and neither does shampooing your scalp. Sebum production is regulated by hormones and genetics, not dictated by how frequently you cleanse.

“Shampooing damages the hair.” MYTH

Damage usually occurs through rough handling, not from the shampoo itself. Advise clients to:

• Focus shampoo on the scalp, not the mid-lengths and ends
• Massage gently with fingertips – don’t harshly rub or use a rough massage brush
• Don’t pile hair on top of the head
• Allow the lather to cleanse lengths as it rinses through
• Follow with a conditioner to smooth and protect the cuticle

As professionals, we have a responsibility to provide accurate advice grounded in scalp science. A clean scalp supports optimal hair growth. Shampoo, when properly formulated and used correctly, paired with the correct hair texture, does not strip, overstimulate oil production or inherently damage hair. Reframing the conversation in this way empowers your clients, and reinforces your authority as a trusted hair expert.