Suzie McGill, Artistic Director, Rainbow Room International shares her tips for colouring Multi-Porosity Hair.
Published:When I work with clients, understanding their hair’s porosity is just as important as choosing the right shade. Hair porosity, as well as how well hair absorbs and retains moisture, directly affects how colour behaves. Multi-porous hair, containing varying porosity levels, requires a tailored approach to achieve consistent, beautiful results.
Hair porosity is determined by the condition of the cuticle. Low-porosity hair has tightly closed cuticles, making it more resistant to colour absorption. High-porosity hair, often affected by previous colour, heat styling, or environmental damage, has raised cuticles that take colour quickly but may struggle to retain it.
Multi-porosity hair combines both, meaning one client can have low-porosity roots and higher-porosity mid-lengths and ends. This variation can make colouring challenging, but with careful planning, it’s entirely manageable.
Patchiness: High-porosity ends may appear darker or lighter than resistant roots.
Fading: Porous sections can lose pigment faster.
Texture changes: Over-processing can cause dryness or breakage.
Being aware of these differences allows you to:
~ Adjust formulations and developer strength.
~ Tailor processing times for each section.
~ Introduce treatments to balance porosity
Assess in Sections: I always check porosity from roots to ends before formulating.
Use Bond Builders & Treatments: Pre- and post-colour treatments help even out porosity and protect hair health.
Custom Formulations: I often vary pigment strength and developer depending on each section.
Work With Porosity: Techniques such as balayage or multi-dimensional colours allow you to embrace natural porosity differences rather than fight them.
Maintain Moisture and Protein Balance: Alternating moisture and protein treatments ensures hair stays healthy and colour lasts longer.
I encourage clients with multi-porosity hair to maintain their hair with regular treatments, avoid harsh shampoos, and be mindful of heat styling. Keeping hair hydrated and balanced makes every colour service easier and longer lasting.
Multi-porosity hair isn’t a challenge; it’s an opportunity to customise every colour service. Understanding and addressing porosity ensures that your clients leave with a result that looks even, feels healthy, and lasts as long as they expect.
For more inspiration, follow @suziemcgillhair_ on INSTA.