By Suzie McGill, Artistic Director, Rainbow Room International.
Published:When I work with clients, one of the most important decisions I make is choosing the right type of colour. It’s not just about the shade, it’s about the client’s hair health, lifestyle, and how long they want the colour to last. Understanding the differences between demi, semi, and permanent colour is key to giving the best results.
Demi-permanent
Demi-permanent Colour sits between semi and permanent. It uses low levels of peroxide to gently deposit colour, making it perfect for enhancing natural tones, blending grey hairs, or refreshing faded colour without over-processing. I use demi when clients want soft, natural results or are transitioning from darker to lighter tones gradually. It gives dimension and shine, grows out gently, and is less damaging than permanent colour.
Semi-permanent
Semi-permanent Colour coats the hair shaft without penetrating the cortex, which means it washes out gradually over several shampoos. It’s ideal for clients who want a temporary change, to tone or neutralise shades, or to experiment with creative fashion colours. Semi-permanent is incredibly versatile because it refreshes existing colour, boosts shine, and allows clients to try trends without committing long-term.
Permanent Colour
Permanent Colour penetrates fully into the hair shaft, allowing for long-lasting results, lightening, or full grey coverage. I use permanent colour when a client wants a complete change, needs to alter their base level or tone significantly, or requires coverage of stubborn grey. With permanent colour, careful formulation is essential to maintain hair integrity. I always assess porosity, previous colour history, and client expectations before starting the service.
When choosing the right colour for a client, I always start with a consultation to understand their hair history, lifestyle, and expectations. I also prioritise hair health, condition, elasticity, and previous services always influence my approach. Healthy hair is the foundation for beautiful colour.
Once you understand the differences between demi, semi, and permanent colour, it becomes much easier to tailor every service to the client’s needs, giving them a result that looks great, feels healthy, and works with their lifestyle.
For more tips and inspiration, follow @suziemcgillhair on INSTA.
