Wella SS20 Colour Trend Report with Zoë Irwin
Let Zoë Irwin talk you through the Wella 2020 Colour Trend Report!
“This season we’re jetting off to the French Riveria and Saint Tropez, to spend time on the sun-drenched beach of Pampelonne with its crystal blue sea, long stretches of sand and chic beach clubs.
“Following on from my last collection Haze Glazing, the vibe is still the 70’s, and I’m particularly focusing on my adoration for the diffused photography of the era with its soft haze dream effect. I love the way sunlight hits the hair from behind giving it an ethereal quality and creating amazing silhouettes. I’m once again referencing the colours and tones of wheat and dried grasses which were so prevalent in 70’s fashion photography. I love the colours of Pampas Grass, Bunnytail, Foxtail and sunbleached wheat.
“You can see these beautiful tones coming through in the SS20 shows, like Chloé, Miu Miu, Stella McCartney and Roksanda. My muses are Brigitte Bardot and Monica Vitti, whose hair colour looks so gorgeous, even now looking at it 50 years later, because of the multi-tonal shades and the seamless way their colour blends.”
WHY THE 70’s?
“We know we’re going through turbulent times, so we’ve become more nostalgic. This has been well documented in fashion over the last few seasons – you can see the 70’s palette strongly featured again in the SS20 shows. We are now looking back to a time of fond memories of the 70’s, so there’s an emotional connection with the time. When we think of the 70’s we think of long hot summers and wearing gorgeous dresses. This time was well documented with images shot in warm hazy light – they are also filtered with soft and dreamy hues, and the colours themselves are very comforting at a time of such despair. We subconsciously are going to colours where we feel homely, warm and nostalgic.”
THE TREND – SUMMER GLAZING
“Summer is a big time for blondes and when Wella Professionals asked me to create a glazing palette for my favourite product Illumina Color, it was a dream come true. I spent days mixing shades, including four new cool blonde shades, and coming up with new ones for my glazing palette.
“Glazing or toning as it is also known, is such a huge part of my work with blondes and lightened hair. All of my clients have two things – Wellaplex to strengthen their hair, and a glazing service with Illumina Color. There’s no way anyone would leave the salon without a glaze being applied. While my palm painting technique (which is the traditional French way to Balayage) is beautiful and my clients often say they love their hair already once I’ve finished this step in their service, they can’t believe the difference to their hair once the glaze is applied.
“Glazing is the way to make lightened hair look glossier, chic and helps to illuminate it, especially if you use a product like Illumina Color, which creates sheer, super natural hair colour with incredible shine and luminosity. I think glazing is the biggest story in colour right now because coupled with the trend for balayage, glazing creates a personalised, bespoke result. You can play with your colour, changing it up or down, depending on the season or your mood.”
ZOË’S THREE STEP SUMMER GLAZING TECHNIQUE
“I colour hair to make it look as natural as possible. I use multiple tones in the hair that blend seamlessly into one another. A girl’s root may be 5 or 6 shades darker than her ends, but because of the blending it becomes completely natural.”
1) Create an overall colour as base
2) Lighten the hair using Palm Painting technique
3) Apply glazes to give the hair warm illumination
Created using Wella Professionals Illumina Color “This is the modern, summer beach brunette and the glazes I used to create this are Pampelonne Peach and Rose Earth. With Shauna’s hair I wanted to illustrate the effect of sunlight in brunette and have pieces that were truly illuminated, so I used my palm painting technique to lighten wider sections of her hair through the mid-lengths and ends. I also used my other favourite technique of babylights to make sure the colour is diffused throughout the hair. This is a great example of how you can do quite a dramatic colour change in one appointment by taking Shauna from quite a dark base to making her look much lighter. I love using a couple of glazes – rather than just one which is what hairdressers often do – as it helps to created much more depth and interest to the hair.”
Created using Wella Professionals Illumina Color “The story I wanted to create with Izzy was around taking a traditional highlighted blonde where you can’t see the highlights anymore because it just looks like one colour and modernise it. I used the Bunnytail Blonde and Sienna Sand glazes to create depth in her hair to create a gorgeous multi-tonal summer blonde reminiscent of Brigitte Bardot’s hair in the early 1970’s. This is as much about taking colour away in certain areas to create depth – for example around the roots and hairline, where I used the Sienna Sand glaze to create definition, while the Bunnytail Blonde glaze gives the hair a gorgeous glossy finish.”
Created using Wella Professionals Illumina Color “I’m obsessed with skin tone and making sure your hair colour really compliments it. For Dene I wanted to create a softer, modern blonde that worked with her pinker skin tone – I felt the cool, ashy colour she had wasn’t working for her. I used the Sienna Sand glaze and it’s created this gorgeous, colour that warmed up her skin tone and made her look fresher and more current.”