LEANDRO SANTOS SANTANA, OWNER OF DECODE HAIR BY LEANDRO TALKS US THROUGH HIS BLONDE LOOKBOOK. 

“As we come into spring/summer blondes will start to become more and more popular. The great thing about blondes is that there’s a shade to complement every skin tone and there are more low maintenance blonde shades that do not require as much upkeep than the likes of platinum and icy hues. Some of my favourite blonde shades are platinum blonde, icy blonde/silver, beige blonde, bronde and golden/cali blonde, the techniques and colour process for each are all so different. Below are some of my favourite techniques for creating these looks as best as possible, whilst maintaining extreme shine and the integrity of the hair, which is incredibly important with blondes! It’s all about ensuring the hair is in its best condition”.

PLATINUM BLONDE
“When we think of platinum blonde there are many things that we should take into consideration, first the condition of the hair, then the texture and finally the natural base. It is important when colouring to achieve platinum hair, that you have a great consultation with the client and they have an understanding of what can be achieved. If the client is looking for a more global result, I would pre-lighten on the roots, as it will give a more “solid “ look that’s more dramatic and definitely high maintenance but if you are looking to achieve more of a diffused look my favourite technique would be a back to back slicing technique, using foils for maximum control and lightness whilst also creating more depth at the roots. With these formulas it’s important to remember that when trying to achieve a platinum cool blonde prelightening is the way to go, as permanent colours can leave very warm underline pigments within the hair. When creating this look my favourite product is the Wella Blondor Powder and I use this with the following formula –

• Wella Blondor Powder 30gr + Wella Welloxon 6% 45ml. It’s important to remember the porosity, texture and section etc. Blondor Seal Care after rinsing the pre lightener is also a must for me. For my toners I use the following –
• Colour Touch 10/0(20gr)+9/16(20gr)+10/81(5gr) + 90ml Color Touch 1.9% emulsion. Also Relights by Colour Touch /86(20gr)+/18(5gr) + 1.9% 50ml.
• Illumina is also a great option for platinum, but it’s important to bare in mind this is permanent.
• /10 (15gr) + 9/60 (15gr) + pastel developer 60ml
• For a platinum blonde to be achieved lift is the key – level 9. 

ICY/SILVER BLONDE
For an icy blonde /silver, I would use the same technique as the platinum (bear in mind that the toner is the last thing we should think about when doing any blonde! Lift and preparation comes first). For icy blonde formulas I like to use level 10 –

• Illumina colour 10/(10gr)+10/1(10gr)+9/60 (5gr) + pastel developer 50ml or alternatively Koleston Perfect 10/16(20gr)+9/81(3gr) + pastel developer 46ml.
• Colour Touch 10/0(20gr)+10/81(20gr)+9/16(10gr)+ Colour Touch 1.9 50ml.

BEIGE BLONDE
For a Beige blonde shade I like a softer transition with a mix of baby lights in the front area for a more natural feel and backcombed balayage using Wella Blondor Powder + Welloxon 4% and 6% lifting to a level 8 (of course taking into consideration porosity, natural base etc.). For formulas –

• I really like the 97’s range from Colour Touch. 7/97(10gr)+9/97(20gr)+8/73(5gr) 1.9% 70ml

BRONDE
To create a bronde shade it really depends on your canvas starting point. You can achieve bronde by just neutralising warmth in the hair or even by adding it. A technique I particularly love to use for this look is zig zag weave foils and balayage in between to create a softer look. Formulas –

• Illumina 9/7(30gr) + pastel developer 60ml.
• Colour Touch 9/96(15gr)+7/97(5gr)+9/97(10gr) +1.9% 60ml.
• Sometimes I also like to keep it nice and easy and use the following –
• Colour Touch 8/0(20gr)+8/73(20gr) + 1.9% 40ml
• Used on pre-lightened hair, again always taking the levels of lift into consideration. 

CALI/GOLDEN BLONDE
It’s all about technique, when creating this type of blonde. I always like to use a heavy mix of babylights (and when I say baby I mean baby and extra fine!) and also balayage. In my personal opinion, using both techniques provides a more natural effect and avoids a very obvious regrowth. I use the lowest level of peroxide/prelightener (Wella Blondor 4% or 1.9%), even if it takes a bit longer processing, it gives me more control and the condition of the hair won’t suffer.

Once the development time is over (around forty minutes) I always use a Bonding Conditioner (Olaplex/Wellaplex) and apply this on towel-dried hair, leaving it on for ten minutes. I then follow this up by shampooing the hair and applying a ph balancer. Using a Bonding Conditioner is beneficial with all blondes to ensure the hair is in the best condition through the colour process and is full of strength and shine.

When creating a Cali/golden blonde I also like to use glossing finishing touches to really enhance the golden hue and give it a luxurious and expensive feel, as this colour looks best when it’s full of shine. At the end of the day, who doesn’t want good, healthy looking, shiny hair? After the glossing process conditioner is key to again, ensure the hair is in its best condition and full of shine. Conditioner is so important to use with any sort of hair, but especially with blondes, as well as at home care treatments to keep the blonde looking and feeling its best.

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